Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic for answering many fuckwitted questions.
I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including forks was attractive.
Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to have got it right first time.
The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead. Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying setback.
The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on those.
I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend. The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized package. Much more versatile.
On Nov 7, 8:29 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small > issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some > single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic > for answering many fuckwitted questions.
> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the > Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs > for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including > forks was attractive.
> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll > leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price > below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at > this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead > of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the > gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved > this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to > have got it right first time.
Would have been cheaper to put a larger cog in back, but maybe I'm missing something. ;-) If it's sorted, then good.
> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking > style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you > look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because > the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I > couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead.
Can't see why you can't use trekking bars from the photos. As you're using hydros, funny turns matter little. If you want a cleaner look, run your levers yankee style with the left squeezing the front disk, which I noticed is on the drive side--you 'll get a nicer arc.
I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great for this.
Saddle must be that of Spinoza's god. ;-) Cruel and unknowable. :-D
Tosspot wrote: > Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small > issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some > single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic > for answering many fuckwitted questions.
> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the > Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs > for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including > forks was attractive.
> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll > leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price > below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at > this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead > of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the > gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved > this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to > have got it right first time.
> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking > style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you > look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because > the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I > couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead. > Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying > setback.
> The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be > the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on > those.
> I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I > already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend. > The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that > haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
> The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but > having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was > the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for > commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag > DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you > can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized > package. Much more versatile.
landotter wrote: > On Nov 7, 8:29 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
<snip>
>> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll >> leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price >> below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at >> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead >> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the >> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved >> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to >> have got it right first time.
> Would have been cheaper to put a larger cog in back, but maybe I'm > missing something. ;-) If it's sorted, then good.
Hmmm, at risk of upsetting a moderator I'm going to go for what I'm thinking. Have you ever tried to get that fucking circlip off of an Alfine? I would have paid *double* to avoid the hours of fucking about with that thing. I now have *three* circlip wrenches, all of them *almost* do the job. It's on. It's staying on. It's *never* coming off until I've worn through the cog *and* the bloody circlip. So there.
>> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking >> style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you >> look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because >> the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I >> couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead.
> Can't see why you can't use trekking bars from the photos. As you're > using hydros, funny turns matter little. If you want a cleaner look, > run your levers yankee style with the left squeezing the front disk, > which I noticed is on the drive side--you 'll get a nicer arc.
> I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that > distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay > bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great > for this.
Oooh! Good tip! I shall do that tomorrow, I'm sure I have some lying around. Many thanks for that.
> Saddle must be that of Spinoza's god. ;-) Cruel and unknowable. :-D
AMuzi wrote: > Tosspot wrote: >> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small >> issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some >> single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
>> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic >> for answering many fuckwitted questions.
>> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the >> Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs >> for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including >> forks was attractive.
>> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll >> leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price >> below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at >> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead >> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the >> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved >> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to >> have got it right first time.
>> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking >> style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you >> look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because >> the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I >> couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead. >> Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying >> setback.
>> The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be >> the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on >> those.
>> I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I >> already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend. >> The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that >> haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
>> The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but >> having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was >> the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for >> commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag >> DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you >> can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized >> package. Much more versatile.
> One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they seem pretty > straightforward. Did I miss something?
I would guess, as I mentioned up there, that the cables come out of the housing at an angle. The tradional 'straight out' hydraulic hoses won't do it. Trust me I tried.
> AMuzi wrote: > > Tosspot wrote: > >> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small > >> issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some > >> single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
> >> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic > >> for answering many fuckwitted questions.
> >> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the > >> Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs > >> for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including > >> forks was attractive.
> >> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll > >> leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price > >> below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at > >> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead > >> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the > >> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved > >> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to > >> have got it right first time.
> >> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking > >> style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you > >> look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because > >> the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I > >> couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead. > >> Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying > >> setback.
> >> The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be > >> the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on > >> those.
> >> I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I > >> already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend. > >> The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that > >> haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
> >> The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but > >> having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was > >> the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for > >> commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag > >> DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you > >> can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized > >> package. Much more versatile.
> > One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they seem pretty > > straightforward. Did I miss something?
> I would guess, as I mentioned up there, that the cables come out of > the housing at an angle. The tradional 'straight out' hydraulic hoses > won't do it. Trust me I tried.
How much more room do you need? The Yuma bar clones I've got could handle a 2cm trim on each and and still be usable.
> Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small > issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some > single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
> So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic > for answering many fuckwitted questions.
> I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the > Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs > for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including > forks was attractive.
> Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll > leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price > below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at > this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead > of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the > gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved > this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to > have got it right first time.
> The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking > style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you > look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because > the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I > couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead. > Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying > setback.
> The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be > the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on > those.
> I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I > already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend. > The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that > haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
> The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but > having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was > the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for > commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag > DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you > can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized > package. Much more versatile.
> Alfine Brakes (pair) 150 > Alfine Cranks 65 > Alfine Hub Dynamo 65 > Alfine Hub Set (includes Cable and Shifter) 190 > B+M Rear Light 10 > Cotic Road Rat Frame 260 > Grips 25 > Handlebars 25 > Hope Cable Guides 10 > Hope Headset 65 > Innertubes 10 > B+M IQ Fly Front Light 75 > Marathon Plus Tyres (pair) 50 > Pedals – Shimano M324s 45 > Post Moderne Bracer Seat Post 40 > Rim Tape 5 > Saddle (B17 Pro) 60 > Sigma BC906 Cycle Computer 15 > SKS Mudguards 15 > Spokes (72) 25 > Topeak Super Tourist Rack 25 > Point Stem 20 > DT Swiss TK 7.1 Rims (pair) 100 > A2Z Center Lock Kit 15 > Topeak RX Trunkbag EX 25 > Miscellaneous 100 > 1490
Coupla high-tech questions arise:
1. Is that copper-colour as yummie in real life as on the photographs? Don't tell me it is, or I'll have to shoot myself: last year I had a Cannondale in that colour on order, only it turned out it was a bait and switch, the dealer had long since sold out and Cannondale weren't making any more...
2. Where are the mudflaps? Or do you have the long mudguards in store somewhere to use in the winter? If you're planning on splashing out -- heh-heh! -- on Brooks mudflaps to match your saddle, be sure to check the size first: once fitted they're not very long.
> landotter wrote: > > On Nov 7, 8:29 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
> <snip>
> >>The one and only big mistake occured at > >> this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead > >> of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the > >> gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved > >> this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to > >> have got it right first time.
> > Would have been cheaper to put a larger cog in back, but maybe I'm > > missing something. ;-) If it's sorted, then good.
> Hmmm, at risk of upsetting a moderator I'm going to go for what I'm > thinking. Have you ever tried to get that fucking circlip off of an > Alfine? I would have paid *double* to avoid the hours of fucking > about with that thing. I now have *three* circlip wrenches, all of > them *almost* do the job. It's on. It's staying on. It's *never* > coming off until I've worn through the cog *and* the bloody circlip. > So there.
I wear a fullface clear helmet to keep the thing out of my eyes, check that I have several spares (Petra Cycles are good for small Shimano parts) and then just apply two screwdrivers and slide as I lever. I'm sure many of my wife's plants on the living room patio are embraced by circlips... Actually, I find getting the circlip back on harder than getting it off.
.......
> > I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that > > distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay > > bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great > > for this.
> Oooh! Good tip! I shall do that tomorrow, I'm sure I have some lying > around. Many thanks for that.
Symmetry and concentricism is overrated. A bit of asymmetry is very in your face, yeb vas, on a bike called "Road Rat". If you make it too perfect it looks poncey, like a bike trailered to shows.
> > Saddle must be that of Spinoza's god. ;-) Cruel and unknowable. :-D
> Heretic.
Maxine is a Swede. She probably believes pain purifies and pain in the butt purifies most of all.
> 1. Is that copper-colour as yummie in real life as on the photographs? > Don't tell me it is, or I'll have to shoot myself: last year I had a > Cannondale in that colour on order, only it turned out it was a bait > and switch, the dealer had long since sold out and Cannondale weren't > making any more...
It's a very strange brown colour. If I was being unkind I'd call it muddy puddle brown, a bit kinder would be 'tea' brown. However, it has met with universal approval and even I, an aesthetic ludite, find the colour very pleasing. The picks don't quite do it justice as the lacquer/gloss it what takes it from 'ughh' to 'nice!'.
> 2. Where are the mudflaps? Or do you have the long mudguards in store > somewhere to use in the winter? If you're planning on splashing out -- > heh-heh! -- on Brooks mudflaps to match your saddle, be sure to check > the size first: once fitted they're not very long.
Never thought about mudflaps. I find the SKS mudguards long enough, but now you mention it, the outgoing commuter had little shorty mudguards on it. Hmmmm....10 squids...
> landotter wrote: >> I can't believe you ruined the whole aesthetic package with that >> distasteful mudguard mounting! ;-) Spacer it back from the chainstay >> bridge to get the arc right. Fat spacers from v-brake pads work great >> for this.
> Oooh! Good tip! I shall do that tomorrow, I'm sure I have some lying > around. Many thanks for that.
> Tosspot wrote: > > Finally I have declared the buildup finished. There is the small > > issue of the HeBe Chainglide but I won't fix that until I have some > > single speed(narrow) chain ring bolts.
> > So, this is where it all started, many thanks to Paul Dexter at Cotic > > for answering many fuckwitted questions.
> > I wanted to build the bike (a commuter) around a hub gear, ideally the > > Alfine, so I was looking at horizontal dropouts, RHS disc mounts, lugs > > for everything. There were a few, but the price of this one including > > forks was attractive.
> > Whom other people have had good dealings with, I didn't, so we'll > > leave it at that. However, the price was very good, compare the price > > below with the current one! The one and only big mistake occured at > > this point when I ordered the Type 4 (black 45T) crankset set instead > > of the Type 3, without doing at least a very basic check of the > > gearing. To say it was over geared was an understatement. FSA solved > > this with a 38T 130mm BCD chain ring, but it would have been better to > > have got it right first time.
> > The next problem was *very* irritating. I wanted to use trekking > > style bars because I find them very comfortable. You can't. If you > > look at bikes with these bars the cables are usually angled because > > the end's of the bars are inline with the stem. Try as I might, I > > couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars were used instead. > > Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a bar bag. An annoying > > setback.
> > The rims were Swiss DT TK 7,1s, reckoned by quite a few people to be > > the most indestructable around, so I thought it was worth the money on > > those.
> > I chose the 4-finger brakes because I'm a traditionalist, the discs I > > already had, and used a A2Z centerlock adaptor, which I can recommend. > > The supplied hoses are long enough for a tandem(!) but for those that > > haven't done it, cutting and bleeding hydraulic hoses is trivial.
> > The rack was an accidental purchase, it was the best the shop had, but > > having lost the bar bag I purchased a Topeak RX Trunkbag EX. This was > > the second mistake. DON'T BUY ONE! It's a lovely bit of kit for > > commuting and I love mine. So what's the problem? Buy an RX TrunkBag > > DXP instead. The side pockets on the EX don't do anything, and as you > > can see the DXP has the ability to extend, all in the same sized > > package. Much more versatile.
Just wondering; how many bikes have been run over by cars or trucks on the street in front of your shop? The people & photographers don't count, they're not as important as bikes :-o
Jay Drew wrote: > On Nov 7, 8:56 am, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >> [...] >> I did not understand the cable conflict with trekker bars:http://www.yellowjersey.org/SANRAD8.JPG
>> One might argue ugly or uncomfortable but technically they >> seem pretty straightforward. Did I miss something?
> Dear Andrew
> Just wondering; how many bikes have been run over by cars or trucks on > the street in front of your shop? > The people & photographers don't count, they're not as important as > bikes :-o
Private vehicles are not allowed on State Street unless they have a delivery permit. I disagree with Andrew about the danger of the buses, since I had a relative hit by a Madison Metro bus doing a right turn on red.
-- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist.
Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> writes: > Try as I might, I couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars > were used instead. Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a > bar bag. An annoying setback.
I have a standard Klikfix bracket which takes an Ortlieb bar bag on my riser bars with cable runs not wildly different to yours. The range of positions for the brake levers is limited by this arrangement, but you might be prepared to put up with this in exchange for the use of the bar bag. If not, an extended bracket would possibly obviate this problem.
Mark Williams wrote: > Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> writes:
>> Try as I might, I couldn't get a sensible run, so normal riser bars >> were used instead. Which in turn robbed me of the ability to use a >> bar bag. An annoying setback.
> I have a standard Klikfix bracket which takes an Ortlieb bar bag on my > riser bars with cable runs not wildly different to yours. The range > of positions for the brake levers is limited by this arrangement, but > you might be prepared to put up with this in exchange for the use of > the bar bag. If not, an extended bracket would possibly obviate this > problem.
Yep, I'm using 4-finger brakes, so they need to go a faor way in-board. I might go back and look at an extended bracket, I never though of it at the time.
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