>I can't say >that I have ever had snow or ice stick on a rim long >enough to have any serious effect on braking.
I think it's something about the material used for the rim.
On my 1980-something Stumpie braking is essentially zero using the original canti brakes on the original steel rims when wet.
The alu rim, OTOH, that I put on the rear wheel has some braking power when wet. Dunno how it compares bc I went to a drum brake in the front and mostly use that. The drum brake sucks pretty badly... but it works well enough for the kind of riding I do and it's been 100% reliable in the wet. -- PeteCresswell
> Per Norman: >> I can't say >> that I have ever had snow or ice stick on a rim long >> enough to have any serious effect on braking. (PeteCresswell) wrote: > I think it's something about the material used for the rim. > On my 1980-something Stumpie braking is essentially zero using > the original canti brakes on the original steel rims when wet. > The alu rim, OTOH, that I put on the rear wheel has some braking > power when wet. Dunno how it compares bc I went to a drum brake > in the front and mostly use that. The drum brake sucks pretty > badly... but it works well enough for the kind of riding I do and > it's been 100% reliable in the wet.
I sold them then. Aluminum wheels were always standard equipment.
On Nov 8, 1:11 pm, Lou Holtman <lhollaatditmaar...@planet.nl> wrote:
> So are you saying that there is no difference in stop distance between > all brakes? Like I said I use all sorts of brakes and they are all good > brakes, even in the wet so I agree with you that any decent brake can do > the job.
None between decent brakes, i.e. with adequate power and good modulation. Once the front brake is strong enough to lift the rear wheel, having more power available will not stop you any faster.
Andrew Muzi wrote: > Tom Sherman °_° wrote: >> André Jute wrote: >>> [...] >>> Add to this the fact that disc brakes totally lack refinement -- in >>> fact, compared to the Magura rim hydraulics, disc brakes on bicycles >>> are pretty loutish -- and you have a pretty good idea why the rim >>> brakes are so popular.
>>> I originally wanted the Louise discs but am glad now that I took the >>> dealers advice and accepted the HS11. They're zero -thought brakes, >>> very smooth and progressive, none of that unseemly lurching at the >>> stop line that pitches you out of the saddle. If I ever order another >>> bike I'd have to consider the Magura rim hydraulics very, very >>> carefully, because they just plain do the job; they're just there, >>> nothing obtrusive about them, which is a good definition of >>> refinement.[...]
>> Rim brakes are significantly degraded in wet conditions, and next to >> useless when the rim is covered in snow or ice.
> So you use and recommend fixed gear then?
I like fixed gear as much as Chalo.
-- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist.
André Jute wrote: > On Nov 8, 3:04 pm, Tom Sherman °_° > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >> André Jute wrote: >>> [...] >>> Add to this the fact that disc brakes totally lack refinement -- in >>> fact, compared to the Magura rim hydraulics, disc brakes on bicycles >>> are pretty loutish -- and you have a pretty good idea why the rim >>> brakes are so popular. >>> I originally wanted the Louise discs but am glad now that I took the >>> dealers advice and accepted the HS11. They're zero -thought brakes, >>> very smooth and progressive, none of that unseemly lurching at the >>> stop line that pitches you out of the saddle. If I ever order another >>> bike I'd have to consider the Magura rim hydraulics very, very >>> carefully, because they just plain do the job; they're just there, >>> nothing obtrusive about them, which is a good definition of >>> refinement.[...] >> Rim brakes are significantly degraded in wet conditions, and next to >> useless when the rim is covered in snow or ice.
> That's a pretty ivory tower view.
> At all times maximum retardation of any vehicle is limited by the > coefficient of friction between tyre and road; a bicycle is further > limited by the very high centre of gravity of bicycle and load > including rider. All that this hypothetical snow and ice of yours on > the rim does is to equalize the braking power to safe levels of > somewhere under 0.6g/s^2. Hardly much of a loss when it is unlikely > that most people ever manage to slow faster on their bikes than say > 0.4g.
Actually, I was considering converting a 'bent with a 55-cm seat height, 155-mm wheelbase and 30%/70% F/R weight distribution to have either a rear disc or drum brake for winter riding.
> I don't have any snow (to be precise, I don't have snow often enough > or long enough or regularly enough to have much cycling experience in > it) and genuinely icy roads only for a few hours a day at the depth of > the worst winters though still not enough to ice up the rims on my > bike, but I do have wet rims often as we have quite a bit of rain year- > round. I have never found wet rims to slow me appreciably or even > noticeably; I ride the same way and brake the same way wet or dry. > Others, Norman for instance, are reporting the same experience in > colder climes.
Refer back to the posts of Jay Bollyn when he was looking for an all around commuter. In the Upper Midwest, we have sections of slush alternating with dry pavement. I have ridden in these conditions with rim brakes, and the performance has not been acceptable.
> The upper *effective real life* limit of bicycle braking, I conclude, > is not affected by choice of brakes (rims brakes cable or hydraulic, > disc brakes, rollers, drums) because, as has been said here often > enough to become axiomatic, the braking power of all decent brakes now > in use exceeds the limits gravity imposes on the rider.
> Once reduced to real life then, one doesn't choose brakes for their > absolute stopping power, because all have more than enough regardless > of weather conditions, but for other reasons (initial cost, > durability, maintenance, convenience, fashion, whatever). Magura's > hydraulic rim brakes are a no-brainer for their refinement and > virtually zero maintenance, and they are at the cheap end of good > brakes too.
I can not lock up the front wheel nor raise the rear wheel on my rim braked Sunset Lowracer, so a Magura front rim brake is under consideration as an upgrade.
-- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist.
<twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: > Andrew Muzi wrote: > > Tom Sherman °_° wrote: > >> André Jute wrote: > >>> [...] > >>> Add to this the fact that disc brakes totally lack refinement -- in > >>> fact, compared to the Magura rim hydraulics, disc brakes on bicycles > >>> are pretty loutish -- and you have a pretty good idea why the rim > >>> brakes are so popular.
> >>> I originally wanted the Louise discs but am glad now that I took the > >>> dealers advice and accepted the HS11. They're zero -thought brakes, > >>> very smooth and progressive, none of that unseemly lurching at the > >>> stop line that pitches you out of the saddle. If I ever order another > >>> bike I'd have to consider the Magura rim hydraulics very, very > >>> carefully, because they just plain do the job; they're just there, > >>> nothing obtrusive about them, which is a good definition of > >>> refinement.[...]
> >> Rim brakes are significantly degraded in wet conditions, and next to > >> useless when the rim is covered in snow or ice.
<twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: > André Jute wrote: > > On Nov 8, 3:04 pm, Tom Sherman °_° > > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: > >> André Jute wrote: > >>> [...] > >>> Add to this the fact that disc brakes totally lack refinement -- in > >>> fact, compared to the Magura rim hydraulics, disc brakes on bicycles > >>> are pretty loutish -- and you have a pretty good idea why the rim > >>> brakes are so popular. > >>> I originally wanted the Louise discs but am glad now that I took the > >>> dealers advice and accepted the HS11. They're zero -thought brakes, > >>> very smooth and progressive, none of that unseemly lurching at the > >>> stop line that pitches you out of the saddle. If I ever order another > >>> bike I'd have to consider the Magura rim hydraulics very, very > >>> carefully, because they just plain do the job; they're just there, > >>> nothing obtrusive about them, which is a good definition of > >>> refinement.[...] > >> Rim brakes are significantly degraded in wet conditions, and next to > >> useless when the rim is covered in snow or ice.
> > That's a pretty ivory tower view.
> > At all times maximum retardation of any vehicle is limited by the > > coefficient of friction between tyre and road; a bicycle is further > > limited by the very high centre of gravity of bicycle and load > > including rider. All that this hypothetical snow and ice of yours on > > the rim does is to equalize the braking power to safe levels of > > somewhere under 0.6g/s^2. Hardly much of a loss when it is unlikely > > that most people ever manage to slow faster on their bikes than say > > 0.4g.
> Actually, I was considering converting a 'bent with a 55-cm seat height, > 155-mm wheelbase and 30%/70% F/R weight distribution to have either a > rear disc or drum brake for winter riding.
> > I don't have any snow (to be precise, I don't have snow often enough > > or long enough or regularly enough to have much cycling experience in > > it) and genuinely icy roads only for a few hours a day at the depth of > > the worst winters though still not enough to ice up the rims on my > > bike, but I do have wet rims often as we have quite a bit of rain year- > > round. I have never found wet rims to slow me appreciably or even > > noticeably; I ride the same way and brake the same way wet or dry. > > Others, Norman for instance, are reporting the same experience in > > colder climes.
> Refer back to the posts of Jay Bollyn when he was looking for an all > around commuter. In the Upper Midwest, we have sections of slush > alternating with dry pavement. I have ridden in these conditions with > rim brakes, and the performance has not been acceptable.
> > The upper *effective real life* limit of bicycle braking, I conclude, > > is not affected by choice of brakes (rims brakes cable or hydraulic, > > disc brakes, rollers, drums) because, as has been said here often > > enough to become axiomatic, the braking power of all decent brakes now > > in use exceeds the limits gravity imposes on the rider.
> > Once reduced to real life then, one doesn't choose brakes for their > > absolute stopping power, because all have more than enough regardless > > of weather conditions, but for other reasons (initial cost, > > durability, maintenance, convenience, fashion, whatever). Magura's > > hydraulic rim brakes are a no-brainer for their refinement and > > virtually zero maintenance, and they are at the cheap end of good > > brakes too.
> I can not lock up the front wheel nor raise the rear wheel on my rim > braked Sunset Lowracer, so a Magura front rim brake is under > consideration as an upgrade.
> -- > Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 > I am a vehicular cyclist.
I don't understand your logic. You say a rim brake is no good in snow and ice, of which you say you have plenty. Then you say you're considering a rim brake. Why?
Your situation seems tailormade for Jay's solution, which I seem to recollect I suggested to him, of roller brakes at the front; they're immune to weather and very low maintenance, just a squirt of Shimano's rollerbrake grease every year or when they get loud, ten seconds start to finish. Whether your rear wheel can take a rollerbrake depends on the drivetrain but if you're upgrading the bike you will anyway eventually want to consider a hub gearbox, and those (except for Rohloff) all come in versions which take a roller brake; Shimano also makes freewheel hubs which take roller brakes for people who insist on derailleurs.
I have Shimano roller brakes of two flavours. One old-fashioned utility series on the rear of a Royal Dutch Gazelle where with the front disc it provides a form of brake balancing that gives smooth enough stops despite the crudity of the disc. The other older/utility rollers I have tried clearly trade in ultimate stopping power for everyday civility.
The second kind of Shimano roller brakes I have are the most up-to- date 75/70 series F/R, and these are as powerful as best quality disc brakes, a little more controllable, but still need attention at speed if you don't want to pay for reconstructive surgery to your face (on a traditional bike at least). The 75/70 rollers are clearly intended for people who ride in a *very* sporting manner, which is what I assume you do on your recumbent. (Perhaps 18 months ago I described on RBT an emergency stop with these heavy duty rollers when a car pulled out of a driveway when I was almost on it at high speed; I was very impressed with their ability.) They take the same sort of learning that discs do, and you can never forget that you have very powerful brakes fitted, but regardless of weather they will pull you up foursquare every time, long, long after discs had started not being there for you.
I cannot think of circumstances where both are offered in which I would choose disc brakes over roller brakes. Disc brakes are now strictly for poseurs, I think, or for the uninformed, or, as always, for the trendy and the cafe racers.
If I were offered a Shimano roller brake on a Rohloff, I would take it even over the Magura hydraulic rim brakes with all their civilized advantages, against the day when that eejit again pulls across the road in front of me and freezes there.
It helps but is in no way crucial to my opinion that Shimano's rollers are an el cheapo option once you have the hubs, and work with their dynohubs which are also cheap and for practical purposes as good as the very expensive SON.
landotter aka landotter wrote: > On Nov 8, 9:33 pm, Tom Sherman °_° > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >> Andrew Muzi wrote: >>> Tom Sherman °_° wrote: >>>> André Jute wrote: >>>>> [...] >>>>> Add to this the fact that disc brakes totally lack refinement -- in >>>>> fact, compared to the Magura rim hydraulics, disc brakes on bicycles >>>>> are pretty loutish -- and you have a pretty good idea why the rim >>>>> brakes are so popular. >>>>> I originally wanted the Louise discs but am glad now that I took the >>>>> dealers advice and accepted the HS11. They're zero -thought brakes, >>>>> very smooth and progressive, none of that unseemly lurching at the >>>>> stop line that pitches you out of the saddle. If I ever order another >>>>> bike I'd have to consider the Magura rim hydraulics very, very >>>>> carefully, because they just plain do the job; they're just there, >>>>> nothing obtrusive about them, which is a good definition of >>>>> refinement.[...] >>>> Rim brakes are significantly degraded in wet conditions, and next to >>>> useless when the rim is covered in snow or ice. >>> So you use and recommend fixed gear then? >> I like fixed gear as much as Chalo.
> How much affection do you have for Chalo?
Er, I like fixed gear as much as Chalo does.
-- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist.
André Jute wrote: > On Nov 9, 3:43 am, Tom Sherman °_° > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >> André Jute wrote: >>> On Nov 8, 3:04 pm, Tom Sherman °_° >>> <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >>>> André Jute wrote: >>>>> [...] >>>>> Add to this the fact that disc brakes totally lack refinement -- in >>>>> fact, compared to the Magura rim hydraulics, disc brakes on bicycles >>>>> are pretty loutish -- and you have a pretty good idea why the rim >>>>> brakes are so popular. >>>>> I originally wanted the Louise discs but am glad now that I took the >>>>> dealers advice and accepted the HS11. They're zero -thought brakes, >>>>> very smooth and progressive, none of that unseemly lurching at the >>>>> stop line that pitches you out of the saddle. If I ever order another >>>>> bike I'd have to consider the Magura rim hydraulics very, very >>>>> carefully, because they just plain do the job; they're just there, >>>>> nothing obtrusive about them, which is a good definition of >>>>> refinement.[...] >>>> Rim brakes are significantly degraded in wet conditions, and next to >>>> useless when the rim is covered in snow or ice. >>> That's a pretty ivory tower view. >>> At all times maximum retardation of any vehicle is limited by the >>> coefficient of friction between tyre and road; a bicycle is further >>> limited by the very high centre of gravity of bicycle and load >>> including rider. All that this hypothetical snow and ice of yours on >>> the rim does is to equalize the braking power to safe levels of >>> somewhere under 0.6g/s^2. Hardly much of a loss when it is unlikely >>> that most people ever manage to slow faster on their bikes than say >>> 0.4g. >> Actually, I was considering converting a 'bent with a 55-cm seat height, >> 155-mm wheelbase and 30%/70% F/R weight distribution to have either a >> rear disc or drum brake for winter riding.
>>> I don't have any snow (to be precise, I don't have snow often enough >>> or long enough or regularly enough to have much cycling experience in >>> it) and genuinely icy roads only for a few hours a day at the depth of >>> the worst winters though still not enough to ice up the rims on my >>> bike, but I do have wet rims often as we have quite a bit of rain year- >>> round. I have never found wet rims to slow me appreciably or even >>> noticeably; I ride the same way and brake the same way wet or dry. >>> Others, Norman for instance, are reporting the same experience in >>> colder climes. >> Refer back to the posts of Jay Bollyn when he was looking for an all >> around commuter. In the Upper Midwest, we have sections of slush >> alternating with dry pavement. I have ridden in these conditions with >> rim brakes, and the performance has not been acceptable.
>>> The upper *effective real life* limit of bicycle braking, I conclude, >>> is not affected by choice of brakes (rims brakes cable or hydraulic, >>> disc brakes, rollers, drums) because, as has been said here often >>> enough to become axiomatic, the braking power of all decent brakes now >>> in use exceeds the limits gravity imposes on the rider. >>> Once reduced to real life then, one doesn't choose brakes for their >>> absolute stopping power, because all have more than enough regardless >>> of weather conditions, but for other reasons (initial cost, >>> durability, maintenance, convenience, fashion, whatever). Magura's >>> hydraulic rim brakes are a no-brainer for their refinement and >>> virtually zero maintenance, and they are at the cheap end of good >>> brakes too. >> I can not lock up the front wheel nor raise the rear wheel on my rim >> braked Sunset Lowracer, so a Magura front rim brake is under >> consideration as an upgrade.
> I don't understand your logic. You say a rim brake is no good in snow > and ice, of which you say you have plenty. Then you say you're > considering a rim brake. Why?
Different bicycles. The Sunset is rare, out of production, and I like it too much to ride in crap. Will a Magura work on a caliper brake mount?
The other bike is a RANS Wave to Tailwind conversion, which has the advantage of being able to "draise" [1] over bad sections of rutted snow and ice. Since I would not use the front brake on this bike on slippery surfaces, and with 70% of the weight on the rear wheel a rear drum or roller brake will be adequate.
If people are going to think I am crazy for riding in the winter, might as well go all out and do it on a 'bent. Of course, a trike could also be considered for this use, but at an order of magnitude more expense.
> Your situation seems tailormade for Jay's solution, which I seem to > recollect I suggested to him, of roller brakes at the front; they're > immune to weather and very low maintenance, just a squirt of Shimano's > rollerbrake grease every year or when they get loud, ten seconds start > to finish. Whether your rear wheel can take a rollerbrake depends on > the drivetrain but if you're upgrading the bike you will anyway > eventually want to consider a hub gearbox, and those (except for > Rohloff) all come in versions which take a roller brake; Shimano also > makes freewheel hubs which take roller brakes for people who insist on > derailleurs.
> I have Shimano roller brakes of two flavours. One old-fashioned > utility series on the rear of a Royal Dutch Gazelle where with the > front disc it provides a form of brake balancing that gives smooth > enough stops despite the crudity of the disc. The other older/utility > rollers I have tried clearly trade in ultimate stopping power for > everyday civility.
> The second kind of Shimano roller brakes I have are the most up-to- > date 75/70 series F/R, and these are as powerful as best quality disc > brakes, a little more controllable, but still need attention at speed > if you don't want to pay for reconstructive surgery to your face (on a > traditional bike at least). The 75/70 rollers are clearly intended for > people who ride in a *very* sporting manner, which is what I assume > you do on your recumbent. (Perhaps 18 months ago I described on RBT an > emergency stop with these heavy duty rollers when a car pulled out of > a driveway when I was almost on it at high speed; I was very impressed > with their ability.) They take the same sort of learning that discs > do, and you can never forget that you have very powerful brakes > fitted, but regardless of weather they will pull you up foursquare > every time, long, long after discs had started not being there for > you.
> I cannot think of circumstances where both are offered in which I > would choose disc brakes over roller brakes. Disc brakes are now > strictly for poseurs, I think, or for the uninformed, or, as always, > for the trendy and the cafe racers.
> If I were offered a Shimano roller brake on a Rohloff, I would take it > even over the Magura hydraulic rim brakes with all their civilized > advantages, against the day when that eejit again pulls across the > road in front of me and freezes there.
> It helps but is in no way crucial to my opinion that Shimano's rollers > are an el cheapo option once you have the hubs, and work with their > dynohubs which are also cheap and for practical purposes as good as > the very expensive SON.
Until fuel cells or some other power source better than current battery technology comes along, a dynamo hub is practically a necessity on a bicycle that will be used to commute in the dark.
[1] "Draise" - to propel a bicycle with one's feet against the ground while seated. Requires a relatively high and upright seat on a recumbent, or a crank-forward upright.
-- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist.
<twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: > André Jute wrote: > Will a Magura work on a caliper brake mount?
Magura's hydraulic rim brakes are designed to fit to frames with cantilever sockets.
Magura's kit comes with stiffening/booster frames to fit front and rear of the fork/seatstay, so I suppose you could kludge up some fixings with U-bolts, using only the supplied parts (check which parts are supplied in the States as in Europe we get a different pack). Or you can find or make a fitting which is u-shaped and has a bolt through the caliper hole and further fastenings to each fork/seatstay leg, with the canti sockets soldered onto the arms, and then attach the Magura braces to this framework; might look like a kludge, though, or might look very "technical".
In fact, in your application of rear only braking on ice I would try to extend the controllability of the lever through weakening those brakes by mounting them without the brace/booster, and mounting them so that they can dissipate part of their power in flexing the frame by pushing the seat stays apart. On my Kranich, even mounted without either of the U-frames, and mounted so they can dissipate some of their power in flexing the seatstays, those Magura calipers are still strong enough to skid the rear wheel if you're rough with the lever. And at the front, strong enough if applied hard from 35-40kph to lift the rear wheel. There's a fine balance between power and control.
I wish you luck fitting up your brakes, but I agree with your neigbours, riding in conditions where you can depend only on your rear brake is nuts.
André Jute wrote: > On Nov 10, 12:34 am, Tom Sherman °_° > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >> André Jute wrote:
>> Will a Magura work on a caliper brake mount?
> Magura's hydraulic rim brakes are designed to fit to frames with > cantilever sockets.
> Magura's kit comes with stiffening/booster frames to fit front and > rear of the fork/seatstay, so I suppose you could kludge up some > fixings with U-bolts, using only the supplied parts (check which parts > are supplied in the States as in Europe we get a different pack). Or > you can find or make a fitting which is u-shaped and has a bolt > through the caliper hole and further fastenings to each fork/seatstay > leg, with the canti sockets soldered onto the arms, and then attach > the Magura braces to this framework; might look like a kludge, though, > or might look very "technical".
> In fact, in your application of rear only braking on ice I would try > to extend the controllability of the lever through weakening those > brakes by mounting them without the brace/booster, and mounting them > so that they can dissipate part of their power in flexing the frame by > pushing the seat stays apart. On my Kranich, even mounted without > either of the U-frames, and mounted so they can dissipate some of > their power in flexing the seatstays, those Magura calipers are still > strong enough to skid the rear wheel if you're rough with the lever. > And at the front, strong enough if applied hard from 35-40kph to lift > the rear wheel. There's a fine balance between power and control.
> I wish you luck fitting up your brakes, but I agree with your > neigbours, riding in conditions where you can depend only on your rear > brake is nuts.
<twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: > André Jute wrote: > > On Nov 10, 12:34 am, Tom Sherman °_° > > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: > >> André Jute wrote:
> >> Will a Magura work on a caliper brake mount?
> > Magura's hydraulic rim brakes are designed to fit to frames with > > cantilever sockets.
> > Magura's kit comes with stiffening/booster frames to fit front and > > rear of the fork/seatstay, so I suppose you could kludge up some > > fixings with U-bolts, using only the supplied parts (check which parts > > are supplied in the States as in Europe we get a different pack). Or > > you can find or make a fitting which is u-shaped and has a bolt > > through the caliper hole and further fastenings to each fork/seatstay > > leg, with the canti sockets soldered onto the arms, and then attach > > the Magura braces to this framework; might look like a kludge, though, > > or might look very "technical".
> Will not work on a bike with a mono-strut instead of a fork.
Looks to me like you're stuffed coming and going; you can't use a roller brake on a monostay either because it needs to attach the torque arm to something on the non-drive side. Nor a disc, because that needs to attach the caliper to something. It looks like caliper rim brakes or nothing, unless you find those Magura HS 77 Clive mentions, which I've never even heard of before, and which certainly aren't currently listed by Magura.
Andre Jute Reformed petrol head Car-free since 1992 Greener than thou!
André Jute wrote: > On Nov 10, 2:41 am, Tom Sherman °_° > <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >> André Jute wrote: >>> On Nov 10, 12:34 am, Tom Sherman °_° >>> <twshermanREM...@THISsouthslope.net> wrote: >>>> André Jute wrote: >>>> Will a Magura work on a caliper brake mount? >>> Magura's hydraulic rim brakes are designed to fit to frames with >>> cantilever sockets. >>> Magura's kit comes with stiffening/booster frames to fit front and >>> rear of the fork/seatstay, so I suppose you could kludge up some >>> fixings with U-bolts, using only the supplied parts (check which parts >>> are supplied in the States as in Europe we get a different pack). Or >>> you can find or make a fitting which is u-shaped and has a bolt >>> through the caliper hole and further fastenings to each fork/seatstay >>> leg, with the canti sockets soldered onto the arms, and then attach >>> the Magura braces to this framework; might look like a kludge, though, >>> or might look very "technical". >> Will not work on a bike with a mono-strut instead of a fork.
> Looks to me like you're stuffed coming and going; you can't use a > roller brake on a monostay either because it needs to attach the > torque arm to something on the non-drive side. Nor a disc, because > that needs to attach the caliper to something. It looks like caliper > rim brakes or nothing, unless you find those Magura HS 77 Clive > mentions, which I've never even heard of before, and which certainly > aren't currently listed by Magura.
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