I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic in a new thread.
My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and then cover with a polyurethane finish.
Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote about in my other thread.
But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for floors.
My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?
> I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR > hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
> I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic in > a new thread.
> My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain > and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a > one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and > then cover with a polyurethane finish.
> Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so > far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote > about in my other thread.
> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for > floors.
> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
> I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks > pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can > anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?
Many companies. maybe even MinWax, have top notch customer service departments. Why not give them a call and see if one of their development scientists can give you some insights? They might even suggest a nice alternative to help you get the floor color you want.
On Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:55:12 -0500, "JayB" <J...@ertyurtio.ghj> wrote: >I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR >hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
>I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic in >a new thread.
>My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain >and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a >one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and >then cover with a polyurethane finish.
>Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so >far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote >about in my other thread.
>But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for >floors.
>My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
>I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks >pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can >anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?
You are just a regular gltton for punishment, aren't you!
> I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : > "CLEAR hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
> I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate > topic in a new thread.
> My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has > stain and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be > used in a one step process for finishing wood instead of having to > stain first and then cover with a polyurethane finish.
> Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried > so far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that > I wrote about in my other thread.
> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended > for floors.
> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
> I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which > looks pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on > top. Can anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?
Don't.
Guess: It's probably not hard enough for foot traffic. End up like walking on a floor that had orange juice spilled on it.
Fact: It WILL look like pure shit. Streaks of dark and light. Different very minor thicknesses in the poly will have different stain color. The stain is embedded in the poly. Anywhere the thickness changes the color will change.
If you go ahead and do it anyway, PLEASE post a pic so someone else can see what a jackass they would be to use it for a floor.
> I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR > hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
> I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic in > a new thread.
> My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain > and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a > one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and > then cover with a polyurethane finish.
> Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so > far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote > about in my other thread.
> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for > floors.
> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
> I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks > pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can > anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?
Go ahead and do it, it will look like crap, then we can hear you for a month asking how to fix the mess. You got good ideas already.
> "JayB" <J...@ertyurtio.ghj> wrote in >> .......... >> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended >> for floors.
>> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
> Fact: It WILL look like pure shit. Streaks of dark and light. Different > very minor thicknesses in the poly will have different stain color. The > stain is embedded in the poly. Anywhere the thickness changes the color > will change.
> If you go ahead and do it anyway, PLEASE post a pic so someone else can > see what a jackass they would be to use it for a floor.
I went ahead and did it and so far it looks pretty good. I can't say that I would recommend doing what I did because it was a little tricky.
I put on one thin coat of Pecan Minwax Polyshades over an unfinished and unsanded new red oak #2 hardwood floor, then covered that with 2 coats of Behr clear gloss "Classic Oil" polyurethane. It looks good except for one small spot in the doorway of one room where that room had dried somewhat before I got the other room done, and where the two rooms meet there is a slight overlap of the semi-dried original coating with the newly applied coat from the second room. That caused a small darkened area due to two coats being applied there. I lightly sanded that out to reduce the coloration and it now looks okay.
So, yes, it's tricky..., but at least it worked in my case. I don't know about how long it will last, but I think it will be fine due to the two protective coats of clear gloss poly on top.
I took some pictures, but I don't know how to upload them. I tried photobucket.com but they required a valid cell phone number to sign up and I don't want to do that.
> I went ahead and did it and so far it looks pretty good. I can't say that I > would recommend doing what I did because it was a little tricky.
> I put on one thin coat of Pecan Minwax Polyshades over an unfinished and > unsanded new red oak #2 hardwood floor, then covered that with 2 coats of > Behr clear gloss "Classic Oil" polyurethane. It looks good except for one > small spot in the doorway of one room where that room had dried somewhat > before I got the other room done, and where the two rooms meet there is a > slight overlap of the semi-dried original coating with the newly applied > coat from the second room. That caused a small darkened area due to two > coats being applied there. I lightly sanded that out to reduce the > coloration and it now looks okay.
I have no doubt that your finish job looks okay. What I suspect, though, is that that "classic oil" finish isn't going to stand up to foot traffic.
That stuff's meant for furniture and such, not floors that get lots of wear and tear. But it's not a tragic situation; only means that you're going to have to refinish it sooner rather than later.
You'd be better off using a varnish that's meant for floors next time for the topcoat.
-- Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
> I have no doubt that your finish job looks okay. What I suspect, though, > is that that "classic oil" finish isn't going to stand up to foot traffic.
> That stuff's meant for furniture and such, not floors that get lots of > wear and tear. But it's not a tragic situation; only means that you're > going to have to refinish it sooner rather than later.
I suspect the reason is that over time the finish will wear in the traffic areas and create light spots. You would never be able to correct for that without sanding the floor. You got around that problem by applying two coats of polyurethane so you might be OK as long as you never let the wear get through the polyurethane. Another possibility is that the Polyshades is a softer finish and the harder polyurethane might not be compatible.
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